We’ve been spending more time in our home city of Amsterdam than usual this first half of 2020, thanks to our dear friend COVID-19. All of our travel plans have been canceled and not yet rescheduled as we wait and see when things will return back to normal again.
We did, however, manage to make the short trip over to the UK for a nice (albeit rainy) weekend in London in February, just before all of the travel restrictions were in place.
It’s been a while since I’ve spent any significant time in a “real” city, so visiting London was a nice change of pace. With just four days in the city (two of which were spent working), we had enough time to visit only a few of the many famous sites. We decided to keep the itinerary light, not trying to pack in too many activities and instead focusing on finding a nice balance between museums, cuisine, and some leisurely exploration of the city.
Both Dan and I have been to London before, so we also wanted to do a few things that would be new for both of us. I had just one bucket list item to cross off the list, a traditional afternoon tea, which we managed to squeeze in (thanks to some last-minute cancellations!).
So without further ado, now on to the cultural and culinary highlights of our long weekend in London!
Cultural Highlights
Most of the museums in London are free, and you could easily fill up a week-long itinerary visiting just a handful of the 170 or so museums scattered across the city. So to narrow down the list, we decided to stick to a few of the greatest hits that would be new for both of us: the British Library, the British Museum, Churchill’s War Room, and the National Gallery.
The British Library
The British Library‘s collection of historical books and other paper paraphernalia is on display in a small room just inside the main entrance. It’s a relatively small display (we only spent around an hour here) but contains some interesting pieces.
The most famous item in their collection is an original Magna Carta from 1215, but they also have many other notable items on display: the writing desk of Jane Austen, original writings from Charles Dickens and Shakespeare’s first folio, ancient and beautifully ornate religious texts and maps, and so on.
They have some more modern memorabilia as well, including manuscripts handwritten by John Lennon with the lyrics to “Strawberry Fields Forever” and other songs.
The British Museum
On Saturday we spent a few hours exploring one of the most-visited museums in London, the British Museum.
Their collection of art and cultural artifacts is massive (one of the largest in the world, in fact), so even with half a day, we were only able to scratch the surface. To help narrow down the options, we decided to follow one of the visitor guide’s recommended routes, which took us by many of the greatest hits and gave a nice sampling of the range of items on display.
We saw a very old and very famous chess set, an impressive hall of mummies, and the pièce de résistance, an expansive gallery lined with sculptures from the Parthenon (which, the pamphlet available at the gallery’s entrance assured us, were gifted to the museum and definitely not stolen).
Churchill’s War Room
After our road trip around Normandy last fall, Dan and I have been on a WWII history kick. So when we saw Churchill’s War Room on the list of not-to-be-missed historical sites, we put it at the top of our own list for the weekend.
Unlike most other museums in London, you have to pay to visit the War Rooms. It’s pretty pricey, too, at £23 a person, but if you’re into WWII history then I’d say it’s definitely worth the cost of admission. And if you’re a fan of Winston Churchill, then let me tell you, this is the place for you.
The first half of the museum is a tour through the underground labyrinth of rooms, where Churchill and his cabinet strategized and orchestrated Britain’s war efforts. There’s a fantastic audio guide that comes included with the cost of admission and tells you how each room was used. The highlight of the tour is the Map Room, which was left untouched following the end of the war — the walls are still covered in maps from the final days of the war.
The second half of the visit is a museum dedicated solely to Churchill himself.
The National Gallery
We didn’t originally plan to visit the National Gallery, but when our flight back to Amsterdam was unexpectedly canceled due to a winter storm, we were afforded an extra halfday to visit another one of London’s famous museums.
The National Gallery houses an impressive collection of some 2,300 paintings, spanning from the 13th century to 1900. It’s also one of the most-visited art museums in the world. We spent a couple of hours winding through the galleries with no particular agenda and had a really nice time doing so.
Culinary Highlights
For me, the highlight of this trip was the food. There’s nothing better than a personal recommendation from a local, and that’s exactly how we landed on all but one of the restaurants we went to.
London is a diverse city, and we enjoyed a wide range of cuisines — in the span of just a few days, we had Indian, Middle Eastern, Australian, and of course a couple of British delicacies (fish & chips, mushy peas, and a nice pot of tea).
Afternoon Tea at the Dorchester
At the top of my “must-do” list was a traditional afternoon tea. There are of course many options for this in London, the most famous of which is undoubtedly the one at the Ritz. But the Afternoon Tea at the Dorchester came highly recommended to me from a friend so we decided to give it a go.
The tea takes place in the lobby of the ornately-decorated 5-star hotel the Dorcester. We enjoyed several hours of leisurely nibbling and sipping, while a pianist posted at a grand piano near our table provided some lovely background music.
The Verdict: ★★★★★
The entire experience of Afternoon Tea at the Dorchester exceeded my expectations. The tea, sandwiches, scones, and pastries were all delicious, but the ambiance was what really made this so memorable.
You can read more about our experience on my post Pinkies Up! An Afternoon Tea at the Dorchester in London.
Honey & Smoke
Probably the nicest meal of our trip was at Honey & Smoke, a Middle Eastern grill on Great Portland Street. The interior was understated but sophisticated, as was the menu. We opted for the 5-course seasonal tasting menu, which included a mixture of lamb, fish, and vegetarian dishes.
The Verdict: ★★★★★
Each plate of the tasting menu at Honey & Smoke was better than the last. The flavors were light but interesting, and I appreciated leaving the restaurant with the feeling of being full but not stuffed (as I usually do after a tasting menu). As a bonus, the cocktails were excellent!
Granger & Co.
Granger & Co. is a chain with several locations across London. We visited the King’s Cross location, just a short distance away from our hotel. The interior is bright, airy, and buzzing with energy, making it a great option for a weekday lunch or weekend brunch.
I enjoyed a stack of fluffy ricotta pancakes with banana and honey, while Dan opted for the chicken burger with miso dressing and mint slaw.
The Verdict: ★★★★☆
Granger & Co. is the perfect spot for a midday meal. The menu was varied with both breakfast and lunch options, and everything we had was excellent. If we were in London for a longer time, I definitely would have come again.
Isla at The Standard
We probably wouldn’t have ended up at the Isla at the Standard if it weren’t for our late arrival on the first night. When we asked at the concierge about our dining options at the hotel, we were directed to a restaurant on the top floor. Stepping off the elevator, we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a very stylish and trendy Bohemian-themed restaurant.
Even though it was a Wednesday night, the entire place was packed, but we were lucky to snag a couple of empty spot at the bar. The menu comprised mostly of pricey small plates and finger foods with a couple of entrees thrown in for good measure. We ordered a few dishes to share and helped ourselves to cocktails from their gin & tonic menu.
The Verdict: ★★★★☆
Everything we had at Isla was delicious. I also liked the playfulness of the menu and the way they reinvented Mexican staples, like tacos and quesadillas. The portion to price ratio was definitely a bit off, but I supposed that’s to be expected at The Standard. You’re definitely paying a premium for the vibe and view, but both are worth the surcharge.
Poppie’s Fish and Chips
One of the only restaurants we visited without a recommendation was Poppie’s Fish and Chips, but we didn’t choose it without first doing a bit of research. After Googling “best fish and chips in London” and scanning through numerous lists, we landed on Poppie’s. They have three locations, so we picked the one closest to us in Soho.
The interior feels authentic despite catering almost exclusively to tourists — old photographs and memorabilia covered the walls and the waitstaff wore matching old-fashioned uniforms. The smell of fried foods hits you the moment you walk in, which makes sense when you see the menu. This place focuses on what they do best: fish, chips, and mushy peas. We tried all three and, well, Poppie’s did not disappoint!
The Verdict: ★★★☆☆
If you’re looking for fish and chips, then Poppie’s is just the place! Dan ordered the haddock and I went with the cod. Both were great — the fish was tender and flaky and the outside was fried to golden perfection. The mushy peas were also an unexpected highlight, so definitely give them a try if you stop by.
Dishoom
Dishoom is a popular Indian restaurant with several locations around the city. Expecting a crowd, we headed here Thursday night right after work. We were greeted by a long queue, but the wait went quickly despite the cold weather thanks to several rounds of complimentary chai tea.
Once inside, we were seated at a low table near the bar with a nice view of the restaurant. The interior has a Wes Anderson-meets-Disney vibe to it, which I actually really enjoyed. The menu is comprised mostly of small plates, so we followed our server’s recommendation and ordered several dishes, one from each section on the menu, and finished it off with a chocolate chai for dessert.
The Verdict: ★★★☆☆
I like almost any restaurant that serves small plates, and Dishoom was no exception. The food was mostly great, aside from a couple of dishes that missed the mark. Probably my favorite part was the themed, colorful interior… well that and the chai.
