DAY 5
Train ride and the impressive Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba
We checked out of our Airbnb in Madrid and made our way to Central Station to catch a train to our next destination of the trip, Córdoba.
Spain has a great rail system that makes it quick and easy to get around the country. Our train to Córdoba took around two hours — just enough time for Luna to get a solid midday nap in.
Once we arrived, we made our way to our hotel to check in. Just passed the front door we entered a beautiful courtyard with plants all around.
We were immediately reminded of the riads we stayed in during our trip to Morocco in 2019, all of which had these serene inner courtyards that offered a counterpoint to the bustling city just outside. This was our first taste of the fascinating hybrid of Spanish and Moorish cultures that gives Andalusia its distinctive style.
Where we stayed: Casa Sirfantas
After settling into our hotel, we ventured out for a very late lunch.
We happened to pass by a restaurant just a couple of blocks from the hotel called Bodegas Campos and decided to give it a try. We ended up having a fantastic meal here — one of the best of our trip actually!
Highlights were a fresh artichoke salad and the rabo de toro (an oxtail stew traditional in Andalusia). We ordered a large pitcher of sangria to help wash it all down. Our time in Córdoba was off to a very promising start.
We spent the rest of the afternoon taking in the city’s most well-known and historic site, the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, also known as the Mezquita.
This is one of the most unique and memorable places I’ve ever visited. As the name suggests, the Mosque-Cathedral has served as a place of worship for both Muslims and Christians throughout history.
The structure was first built as a mosque in the first century, when Córdoba was the capital of the muslim-controlled region of Spain then called al-Adalus. It wasn’t until the 16th century, about 300 years after Christan forces regained control of the city, when the mosque was converted into a cathedral. Instead of replacing the entire structure, they built a Renaissance cathedral nave and transept smack dab in the center of the building.
The result is a fascinating combination of architectural styles and religious symbolism.
The exterior and perimeter of the interior space still retains much of its original Islamic architecture. Upon entering, you’re first greeted by hundreds columns and arches covered with intricate details and delicate carvings.
As you reach the center and enter the cathedral addition, you suddenly find yourself beneath a soaring vaulted ceiling complete with all of the usual Renaissance-era details you’d expect.
The two structures are in such stark contrast to one another but seem to somehow work in harmony. The hybrid of the two religions and cultures is so unique — I’ve never seen anything quite like it!
After exploring the Mosque-Cathedral, we made our way to Tu Pescaito for dinner.
The owner was not only kind enough to keep his restaurant open for us past their normal closing time, but he also took the time to explain the menu and offer up some of his own recommendations.
We started with the traditional Salmorejo, a cold tomator soup that’s famous in Southern Spain. We then enjoyed a main course of delicious fish with a side of potatos.
And with that, we wrapped up our first day in Córdoba. We headed back to the hotel to put Luna to bed and enjoyed some time sitting and chatting in the courtyard.
DAY 6
A walk around Córdoba’s ancient city walls and Roman Bridge and a visit to the spectacle of La Feria
For the morning of our second day in Córdoba, we started off with a long walk through town.
We wandered through the winding streets of the Jewish Quarter, admiring the charming white-washed houses and colorful flower pots. Córdoba is known for its floral displays, and it seems like every alleyway was lined with flowers.
We then happened upon a small park called Jardines de Orive that had the most beautiful trees in full-bloom with purple flowers. I’d never seen anything quite like it!
For lunch, we headed to Casa Pepe de la Judería, a local restaurant famous for its traditional Spanish cuisine.
We indulged in some mouth-watering croquettes and oxtail stew, both bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection.
Toward the end of the meal, our waiter asked us where we’re from. I never quite know how to answer this question — sometimes I say my birthplace in the US and other times I stick to my current residence in the Netherlands. This time I went with the former, and a few minutes later our waiter reappears with a plate that had “California” and “Tennessee” written in chocolate. Such a really nice, thoughtful gesture!
After lunch, we decided to take a leisurely walk following a self-guided walking tour in our guide book.
The walk led us past some of the city’s historical landmarks, including the ancient city walls surrounding the old town of Córdoba and the magnificent Roman Bridge, both marvels of ancient engineering.
The walls were originally built by the Romans and later reinforced by the Moors, who also added several towers and gates to the structure. These walls were a key defensive feature of the city for centuries and offer a fascinating glimpse into the city’s rich and complex history.
The Roman Bridge, also known as the Puente Romano, was originally constructed in the 1st century BC to cross the Guadalquivir River. The bridge is over 790 feet long and features 16 arches, with impressive views of the river and the city on either side.
After crossing the bridge, we paused for a moment to take in the view of the bridge and old town beyond before heading on to our ultimate destination. We were headed to the fairgrounds on the outskirts of the city, where Córdoba’s biggest event of the year takes place, called La Feria.
As we drew nearer to the fairgrounds, we started seeing more and more women dressed in their finest flamenco dresses and colorful shawls.
The women were stunning, and the men looked equally impressive in their traditional flat-brimmed hats and three-piece Campero suits. Even the horses were dressed to the nines with tassels and bells adorning their bridles. We immediately felt underdressed and stuck out like a sore thumb being some of the only tourists there, but no one seemed to mind!
We peeked into some of the tents to see the locals performing their traditional Sevillanas dance, a folk dance specific to the Seville region with flamenco influences. The music was incredibly loud — each tent seemed to compete for airwaves with its neighbor. Dan and I took turns popping into the tents to spare Luna from the noise (although I did see several kids somehow fast asleep inside the tents!).
Outside the tents, horse-drawn carriages were making laps around the fairgrounds. It felt like a grand parade, with everyone on display and showing off their finest outfits. It was all quite a sight to behold!
After a long day of walking and exploring, we grabbed a quick bite to eat on the way back to our hotel and turned in for the night. The next morning, we were heading onward to our third part of the trip, Seville.
Our time in Córdoba was brief but so memorable — it’s hard to believe we were only there for just two days!
Don’t miss it…
This post is a part of a larger two-week trip around Spain. Check out the full itinerary and an overview of the trip here!
