To make the most of our first holiday season living in Amsterdam, Dan and I decided to head to Europe’s epicenter for holiday cheer: the Christmas markets in Cologne, Germany!

Luckily there’s a high-speed train that connect Amsterdam to Cologne, so we were able to visit over a weekend, giving us nearly two full days to explore the markets. We managed to visit three of Cologne’s six Christmas Markets but spent the majority at two of the city’s most famous: Heinzels Wintermärchen and Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom.

We visited in mid-December, so we were dealing with some low temperatures (it even snowed our second night in town!), but we managed to stay warm thanks in part to lots of hearty snacks and of course plenty of glühwein, a hot mulled wine popular at the German markets.

Heinzels Wintermärchen

Heinzel’s Winter Fairytale

We started our day at the Heinzels market, which was just a few minutes walk from our Airbnb and is one of the most popular markets in town.

This market is both the oldest and largest in Cologne, but it’s also well known for its imaginative and fairytale-like decorations. The Heinzels is named after the mischievous Heinzels, or “House Elves,” which can be found hiding all around the market. The vendors’ stalls resemble festive gingerbread houses with eaves lined with garland and Christmas lights. The entire market felt like a winter wonderland!

There was a very diverse selection of German snacks, both savory and sweet, and many opportunities to purchase glühwein in the market’s signature mug, which is of course covered with elves. (Each of the markets have their own refillable mugs, but this one was our favorite.)

In addition to the food, the market had a number of activities for kids and adults alike, including an ice skating rink, ice stock curling rink, a merry-go-round, and even a small ferris wheel!

TO VISIT: Heinzels Wintermärchen is open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm during the holiday season. For more information, visit the Heinzels Wintermärchen website.

TIP: Arrive early to avoid the crowds. We went at 11:00am and were able to stroll freely from one end of the market to the other.

Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom

Christmas Market at Cologne Cathedral

After the Heinzels Wintermärchen, we headed north toward the towering Cologne Cathedral, which is the backdrop for the city’s most visited Christmas market, the Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom.

Before entering the market, we decided to take a break from the cold and joined an afternoon guided tour of Cologne Cathedral. The Cathedral is the fourth tallest in the world and was originally built to house the Shrine of the Three Kings, a large reliquary from the Middle Ages that’s brought a steady stream of religious pilgrims to Cologne since the 12th century.

After warming up a bit, we headed back outside to join the hordes of other market-goers on their way to the Weihnachtsmarkt.

By the time we reached the market, it was nearly 4:00pm and twilight, which made for a beautiful backdrop for the huge canopy of Christmas lights that covers much of the market and its stalls. At the center of the market is an impressive and towering Christmas tree and a stage for their holiday concert series. 

While this market is less whimsical than the elf-cladded Heinzels Wintermärchen, it certainly makes up for any deficiencies with an all-around festive atmosphere! 

TO VISIT: Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom is open from 11:00am to 9:00pm from Sunday Wednesday, from 11:00am to 10:00pm from Thursday to Friday, and from 10:00am to 10:00pm on Saturday. For more information, visit the Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom website.

TIP: At night this market is absolutely packed, but as long as you’re willing to “go with the flow” you can still have a great time. Personally, I think the crowds are worth it to see the market at night.