Amboise is only about 2 hours from Paris by train, making it the perfect getaway when you want to take a couple of days to explore the idyllic French countryside and enjoy some amazing cuisine while you’re at it.
Amboise is in the Loire Valley, an area known for its chateaus and vineyards specializing in sparkling wines. On our trip we enjoyed all of the above as well as a magical hot air balloon ride and had such a great trip that I’m already looking forward to returning one day!
Our Stay in the Caves
There are plenty of lovely places to stay in Amboise proper, but we opted for a more unique experience and stayed at a B&B that’s built into the “troglodyte” caves to the north town called Amboise Troglodyte Bed & Breakfast.
I almost exclusively book our accommodations through Airbnb, and this one in particular was actually the inspiration for the whole trip — I somehow discovered this listing, made the booking, and planned the rest of the trip from there.
Sign up for Airbnb using my referral link and we’ll both receive $40 in free travel credit!
The rooms are beautifully decorated in a French-cave-chic sort of way, but the highlight may be the breakfast, which is prepared by the owners Alexis and Lotte and is served in their dining room.
The Sights
There are three popular chateaus in this part of the Loire Valley: Château d’Amboise, Château de Chenonceau, and Château de Chambord.
We took an early train from Paris to Amboise and had several hours to kill before check-in, so we made good use of the day by visiting the Château d’Amboise, which is located at the center of town.
The medieval castle Château d’Amboise was confiscated in the 15th century by Charles VII of France after the chateau’s owner was convicted of plotting against Louis XI. The property continued to be updated and expanded over time by the various Kings and other members of the Royal family that called the chateau home.
It is perhaps most well-known for being the burial site of Leonardo da Vinci, who spent the last three years of his life living in Amboise (you can also visit his home as well at the nearby Clos Lucé). He was originally buried at St. Florentin church in 1519. Some time in the eighteenth century the church was demolished and in 1863 his remains were located, identified, and moved to their current home in the Saint-Hubert Chapel on the grounds of the Château d’Amboise.
There is some debate over whether or not the remains are in fact those of Leonardo, so there is a DNA test underway with results expected in 2019.
The next day, we decided to ride our bikes from the caves to Château de Chenonceau.
This was supposed to be a 45 minute bike ride, but Google Maps led us astray and we ended up on a nearly 2-hour long journey through forests and farmland. Despite being a highly inefficient route, we enjoyed the scenery of the park and vineyards along the way. The Chateau, of course, was also well worth the travel.
The Château de Chenonceau was constructed from 1514 to 1522 and was originally built upon the foundations of an old mill. This was later expanded to span the River Cher, resulting in a distinct structure that appears to be half bridge and half palace. The Chateau was owned by only women throughout its history as a residence, giving it the nickname Château des Dames, or the Ladies’ Château.
We enjoyed a fancier-than-usual lunch at the L’Orangerie on the grounds of the Château.
There is a cafeteria-style restaurant next door that also receives high ratings, but if you have the time and appetite I would definitely recommend a visit to L’Orangerie — excellent food, great service, and wonderful ambiance. Be sure to try their (French) Onion Soup!
Hot Air Ballooning
The highlight of the trip was a hot air balloon ride along the Loire River.
This was a first for both us and was one of the most amazing experiences! Read more (and watch a video!) about it in my post on our Balloon Ride over the Loire Valley.
